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MUMC Code of Practice and Health and Safety Policy
This document has been produced referring to the following documents constructed and published by the BMC:
“BMC Club Guidance Notes”
“Draft Recommendations for Club Members Involved in the Care or Leadership of Others”
“BMC Student Club Membership”
“BMC Safety on Mountains”
Definitions:
MUMC: Manchester University Mountaineering Club
UMAU: University of Manchester Athletic Union (parent organisation)
BMC: The British Mountaineering Council (governing body)
Meet: Trips organised by the committee for the membership, which are sanctioned by the UMAU
Leader: The Experienced person engaged in climbing a route who lead-climbs or sets up a top-rope.
Committee: The duly elected committee of the MUMC.
Meet Leader / Meet Organiser: The person responsible for planning meets. This will normally be the Meets Secretary
General Considerations.
1.1 The Club shall appoint an equipment officer to oversee the condition and use of pooled club equipment.
1.2 The Club shall appoint a Safety Officer to oversee safety considerations, and to represent the club on such issues to the UMAU and the BMC.
1.3 The Committee shall follow guidance within the “BMC Club Guidance Notes.”
1.4 The Club shall apply to be represented at the annual BMC “Safety and Good Practice Seminar”
1.5 The club shall encourage members to attend first aid courses
1.6 No members of the club shall be minors (i.e. under 18 years of age)
1.7 All new and unknown members of the club shall be assumed to have little or no experience and shall be treated accordingly
Meets
2.1 All Members on club meets are to be made aware of the BMC participation statement, and made aware of the risks pertaining to their chosen activity.
‘Climbing, hillwalking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.’
In addition all members are required to fill in a questionnaire and signed declaration giving the committee an idea of their ability.
2.2 All members on club meets, especially beginners and novices, are made aware that those perceived to be in charge (i.e. the Committee, Meets organiser, and Leaders) are not necessarily qualified, do not need to be qualified, are not regarded by the club nor regard themselves as ‘technical experts’ – but are amateur climbers of experience who are happy to impart their knowledge. Therefore it must be stressed that advice given is to be viewed with this in mind.
2.3 Leaders are to be advised of their increased duty of care, especially when climbing with those of significantly less experience than they do. Before committing to the responsibility, they will be encouraged to consider; a) the level of experience of their partners; b) the potential hazards of the environment – and their partners’ awareness of associated risks; c) to select objectives that would normally be comfortably within their own capabilities, and those of their group; d) that where there is doubt over their ability or that of their partners, they should err on the side of caution.
2.4 Leaders are advised on steps to take if emergencies do occur. (see; “emergency procedures”)
2.5 Whilst the committee does not seek to control the actions and choices of members present on club meets, novices and beginners will only be encouraged to climb with experienced and competent members who are known by the committee as such.
2.6 The club will maintain a first aid kit, containing plasters, sterile wound dressing, elastic adhesive bandage, painkillers, antiseptic wipes, burn dressing, second skin (or similar) and triangular bandage. The first aid kit will be taken on all club meets. In addition club members will be encouraged to carry with them personal first aid kits, though the club will not supply these.
2.7 No MUMC meet shall go ahead with less than four members, including two experienced members.
2.8 All leaders must notify the meets leader if they wish to visit a crag or area away from the main group on the meet. The leader in question will then assume the role of meet leader for the party they take with them.
Winter Meets
In addition to 2.1 – 2.7, additional precautions will be taken on winter meets:
3.1 Each party shall complete a ‘route card’. This will contain: An estimate of the time the walk or climb is expected to take, including reasonable delay or inaccuracy, the names of all members of the party, a description of the appearances of those members (particularly helmet and clothing colour), the place of departure and return, an itinerary of the expected trip (including route names etc.), bad weather alternative(s), an equipment checklist and mobile telephone numbers. The back of the ‘route card’ shall have a summary of the actions to be taken in case of emergency (see ‘Emergencies’).
3.2 The route cards shall then be left in an agreed and accessible place, known to all members on the meet.
Equipment
4.1 – 4.3 are the responsibility of the Gear Secretary. 4.4 is the responsibility of the Meets Secretary.
4.1 Club Gear shall be clearly identifiable, regularly inspected, and its condition logged.
4.2 Club Gear shall be inspected before each Meet.
4.3 The selection of what equipment is to be taken on meets is to be carried out in reference to the “MUMC Equipment Checklist”
4.4 Club members engaging on meets are to be advised on what equipment to bring, and what may be borrowed from the club. This will be done in reference to the Equipment checklist. Nevertheless, members will be encouraged to bring their own equipment, where appropriate.
Emergency Procedures
5.1 Injury on meets:
1. All reasonable efforts shall be made to cope with the situation without rescue services.
2. The person should be sheltered by the provision of any extra clothing and shelter.
3. First Aid should be administered by the first first aider on the scene, if necessary.
4. The meet leader should be informed (if possible) as well as contacting Mountain Rescue (999) if necessary. The grid reference of the casualty will be required (available in any guide or from the meet leader) or at the very least an idea of your whereabouts. A basic idea of the condition of the casualty is also useful. When you have dialled 999 ask for the police, say which area you are in and say you want mountain rescue.
5. If using a mobile keep it switched on after the call.
6. If a descent must be made to a landline:
On the vast majority of rock climbing meets climbers climb in close proximity to one another, in which case at least two people should descend whilst at least one stays with the casualty.
If the party contains less than four people and is cut off from the main body of the meet:
Attempts to attract others should be made using a whistle or torch. The international distress signal is six blasts or flashes followed by a minute’s interval and then repeated.
If no local help arrives then a decision to either send a lone messenger (if there are three members of the group) or to leave the casualty alone. The decision can only be taken in consideration of the circumstances (conditions, injury and ability of the party).
On the descent:
Choose the safest route down (even if is not the quickest) to lessen the chance of a second injury.
Mark the casualties’ position on a map and take it along.
7. Up to date first aid information will be made available to all members on the MUMC website
5.2 If Lost:
Attempt to relocate your position. In clear weather this is often a case of using fairly basic navigation techniques (using a transit or when two features are in line, straight features on the map, taking back bearings to known features). However in poor visibility the problems are often huge. Using the slope aspect, ground underfoot or even wind direction might help. Try to aim for a linear feature rather than a single point. Make sure the party stays together.
In parties in which not all members are competent navigators, the more experienced members will owe a duty of care to the other member to take reasonable precaution against separation.
If you fail to find your position then if possible contact mountain rescue. Try to give them an idea of your general area or the last point when you knew where you were and the direction in which you were going. Stay where you are or go a short distance if the area you are in is unsuitable for helicopters and attempt to set up some sort of signal. Six whistle blasts repeated every minute or ‘SOS’ (three short three long three short). Five vertical lines 3m long each is the distress signal for helicopters/aircraft. Alternatively the hand signal for ‘require assistance’ is both arms held up in a ‘Y’ shape either on your back or standing.
5.3 Use of Route Cards:
Route Cards should be used on all winter climbing/walking meets and at other times at the disgression of the group leader.
See 3.1 for information on the route card.
The most experienced person down from the mountain shall be responsible for the route cards, in most cases this would be the meet leader.
If a party’s estimated time of return passes:
Attempt to contact them on their mobile telephones, if possible. They may have been severely delayed but do not require mountain rescue. In this case keep you mobile switched on and keep in contact regularly.
If you cannot contact them then call mountain rescue, and explain the situation.
If the party returns after you have contacted mountain rescue or the police then let them know as soon as possible.
For those who have left the route card:
Don’t allow your route information to fix your plans, be prepared to change you route once out on the hills if conditions dictate. Don’t rush to get back before your estimated time. Once you get down ensure the person with the route card is notified, and the police and mountain rescue if they have been contacted.
5.4 Staying out at night:
All leaders on winter meets will have competent knowledge of how to survive in winter terrain. If possible let someone know where you are and when you expect to be down the next day.
On behalf of the Membership and the committee of the Manchester University Mountaineering Club we have ratified the above code of practice and to the best of our knowledge all club meets operate accordingly.
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