Safer Belaying
On the Edge #117
Belaying is a basic but vital skill that is ignored by many. Sloppy technique is easily compensated for when you have quick reflexes and are concentrating, but if your mind wanders, poor technique can result in painful burns for the belayer, or worse, a dropped climber.
This article should help you to become a more supportive belayer, giving confidence to your partner during their all-important lead…
Belaying a Leader
Do not rummage in your rucksack. Stay focussed, pre-empting the leader’s moves and attempts to clip protection
Position yourself so the rope runs cleanly and does not wrap around the leader’s legs during the first few moves
Pay out the correct amount of rope, so you do not pull the climber backwards and avoid large loops of rope on the floor between you and them
Keep the ropes tangle-free by loosely feeding them onto the floor prior to climbing, with the leader’s end on top of the pile
Consider the direction a fall will pull you in
Position yourself close to the cliff. This will help keep the runners in place and ensure that a fall will not pull you into the cliff face or lift the runners out
When the route is running directly up a steep cliff, stand up to belay because it is a more comfortable position to absorb the forces created by a fall
If the leader falls whilst climbing over an overhang do not be tempted to pull the rope tight, it will only increase the chance of them slamming into the cliff below the overhang
Belaying a Second
To hold a fall, keep the rope in the “Z” position
To pay the rope out, bring the live and dead ends parallel and pull the live rope through
Simply reading this does NOT make you a competent belayer.
There is no substitute for practice!!